Scratcher Posted January 15, 2011 Posted January 15, 2011 (edited) Ah well, having lost patience with the Trumpeter saga, I decided to scratch a 1/24th Bucc. I went for 1/24th so that even if Trumpy do a 1/32 model, I won't be wasting my time. At least I'll have something fairly unique. As can be seen from the pics, I started with a datum line ( a straight stick!) and added bulkheads get the general shape. I'll add stringers and use plasticard to fill in roughly, underneath the stringers and bulkheads. I'll then use car filller to fill the basic shape, after some careful sanding back to the level of the bulkheads and stringers. Once I have a blank in a shape I'm happy with, I'll make silicon casts. I'll then cast it in resin and add surface detail to the resin cast, which I'll cast again, so I can have multiple copies with surface details included. PICS - can't work out how to post! Edited January 15, 2011 by Scratcher
F111Fan Posted January 15, 2011 Posted January 15, 2011 (edited) at the ready for this one-will this be a commercial kit, seeing as you are doing resin masters? Edited January 15, 2011 by F111Fan
The Velociweiler Posted January 15, 2011 Posted January 15, 2011 Ah well, having lost patience with the Trumpeter saga, I decided to scratch a 1/24th Bucc. I went for 1/24th so that even if |Trumpy do a 1/32 model, I won't be wasting my time. At least I'll have something fairly unique.As can be seen from the pics, I started with a datum line ( a straight stick!) and added bulkheads get the general shape. I'll add stringers and use plasticard to fill in roughly, underneath the stringers and bulkheads. I'll then use car filller to fill the basic shape, after some careful sanding back to the level of the bulkheads and stringers. Once I have a blank in a shape I'm happy with, I'll make silicon casts. I'll then cast it in resin and add surface detail to the resin cast, which I'll cast again, so I can have multiple copies with surface details included. PICS - can't work out how to post! Just careful of the silicon. A resin cast taken from a silicon mould will (in general terms) be 1 - 2% smaller than the original. Thus a 'master' which is a duplicate of a cast original is already smaller. Remember to bear that in mind.
Tim T Posted January 16, 2011 Posted January 16, 2011 This is going to be spectacular I feel. And also way beyond me! I will be watching with awe and interest.
Mike Posted January 16, 2011 Posted January 16, 2011 PICS - can't work out how to post! Try this thread here
nw005uk Posted January 16, 2011 Posted January 16, 2011 Hi, it put a smile on my face to see this post this morning as i thought about going with the brick in 1/32 scratch. i will be looking forward to seeing how your build comes along and perhaps gaining some tips for my gannet scratch. As for photos, 1. create an account on photo bucket 2. upload you photos on there (straight forward) 3. once loaded each photo has a link with it. 4. when you want to add pics on here click the picture button at the top the text box and paste the link. you can adjust the photo size in photo bucket Nick
cngaero Posted January 16, 2011 Posted January 16, 2011 I can't wait to see this build taking shape. Good luck with your efforts. I can't wait to see this build taking shape. Good luck with your efforts.
Scratcher Posted January 16, 2011 Author Posted January 16, 2011 (edited) No joy with pics yet -' Sorry, dynamic pages in the tags are not allowed' error. However - here's a link http://s890.photobucket.com/albums/ac109/S...p;current=1.jpg http://s890.photobucket.com/albums/ac109/S...p;current=2.jpg Edited January 16, 2011 by Scratcher
Mike Posted January 16, 2011 Posted January 16, 2011 It really is very easy - just click on the "Direct Link" text on the page you link to, click the "Picture button in your posting window, and paste the copied link in. Ta-daa!
Scratcher Posted January 16, 2011 Author Posted January 16, 2011 (edited) at the ready for this one-will this be a commercial kit, seeing as you are doing resin masters? I'll have to see how it turns out before I think about offering it as a kit, which seems very ambitious! Some of the very fine detail - undercarriage, wing roots, airbrake interiors, seats, etc. whilst feasible to make as a one-off, might be a challenge to mould. Overall, though I hope to get the major components accurate to within a millimetre or so - approx 1 inch at full scale, which I think is a reasonable tolerance. I'll be checking by using a vernier gauge on an airfix 1/48th Bucc. I'll have to have a think about shrinkage on the major components, as The Velociweiler kindly pointed out, although perhaps in the overall scheme of things nobody would notice if it was very marginally undersize? Edited January 16, 2011 by Scratcher
Scratcher Posted January 18, 2011 Author Posted January 18, 2011 Adding stringers turns out to be quite labour intensive. I'll add some more pics in a week or so when that stage is complete. I may go a couple of mm oversize with the car filler, to allow for shrinkage when casting in resin.
Edgar Posted January 18, 2011 Posted January 18, 2011 I'll have to have a think about shrinkage on the major components, as The Velociweiler kindly pointed out, although perhaps in the overall scheme of things nobody would notice if it was very marginally undersize? Just so long as you don't change your name to Trumpeter.
T0M4ever Posted January 18, 2011 Posted January 18, 2011 Build it, measure how long it is and work out what scale it is from that! 1/25.6 could be the next big thing
Scratcher Posted January 18, 2011 Author Posted January 18, 2011 (edited) Build it, measure how long it is and work out what scale it is from that! 1/25.6 could be the next big thing A bit of poetic licence is usually allowed in scale. Would you fly in an aeroplane with a 3 inch gap between panels and rivets the size of saucers? Edited January 18, 2011 by Scratcher
Stuflyer Posted January 18, 2011 Posted January 18, 2011 (edited) What, like pretty much every 1/72 kit on the market? :-) My own view of things like panel lines and rivets is this: They are there, but invisible on most real aeroplanes. However as to me the purpose of a model is illustrative and aesthetic, I want to see them. I am not trying to duplicate a photo in 3 d, I am trying to make a painting in 3d. Therefore because I want to illustrate what's present on a real thing I will have them present on the model even if they have to be exaggerated. That's MY view, yours may vary. I am just saying that every kit in the market, if it's got rivets and or panel lines is going to be exaggerating them. As an example there was a beautifully built and painted Tempest at the Bolton show on Sunday with most of the panel lines removed. It didnt look anywhere near as "Right" to me as the models with panel likes and washes and so on. Thats just what I like but to me although intellectually I know that the panel line less tempest is strictly more "correct" it looked bare and uninspiring: I want to see where the panel lines go and meet, how the aeroplane is put together and where the irflow would take the exhaust and staining. I just think it has more character. No matter what you scale down on a model something is going to be overscale, it's just a matter what you can put up with. But if you are going to complain about the size of a panel line, then a couple of millimetres would seem to be just as inmportant. You build how you like mate, good luck to you: your project is an interesting and admirable one. I am just saying that your statement about being a couple of mill undersize on a few things when even a large panel line is less than a couple of mill wide and seems to be unnacceptable to you seems a little inconsistent. To be clear, I really don't mind how you decide to build - your model: your rules. Good luck with your project :-) Edited January 18, 2011 by Stuflyer
kev67 Posted January 18, 2011 Posted January 18, 2011 (edited) To put the photos in Britmodeller copy and paste where is says IMG code where your photo is in Photobucket, click on the Insert image in Britmodeller delete the IMG code on both sides of the text so it will start with http you will get this http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/ac109/Stuart_H/1.jpg You also need to temporarily allow scripted windows Edited January 18, 2011 by kev67
Scratcher Posted January 18, 2011 Author Posted January 18, 2011 (edited) What, like pretty much every 1/72 kit on the market? :-) My own view of things like panel lines and rivets is this: They are there, but invisible on most real aeroplanes. However as to me the purpose of a model is illustrative and aesthetic, I want to see them. I am not trying to duplicate a photo in 3 d, I am trying to make a painting in 3d.Therefore because I want to illustrate what's present on a real thing I will have them present on the model even if they have to be exaggerated. That's MY view, yours may vary. I am just saying that every kit in the market, if it's got rivets and or panel lines is going to be exaggerating them. As an example there was a beautifully built and painted Tempest at the Bolton show on Sunday with most of the panel lines removed. It didnt look anywhere near as "Right" to me as the models with panel likes and washes and so on. Thats just what I like but to me although intellectually I know that the panel line less tempest is strictly more "correct" it looked bare and uninspiring: I want to see where the panel lines go and meet, how the aeroplane is put together and where the irflow would take the exhaust and staining. I just think it has more character. No matter what you scale down on a model something is going to be overscale, it's just a matter what you can put up with. But if you are going to complain about the size of a panel line, then a couple of millimetres would seem to be just as inmportant. You build how you like mate, good luck to you: your project is an interesting and admirable one. I am just saying that your statement about being a couple of mill undersize on a few things when even a large panel line is less than a couple of mill wide and seems to be unnacceptable to you seems a little inconsistent. To be clear, I really don't mind how you decide to build - your model: your rules. Good luck with your project :-) Yes, a bit of poetic licence is usually allowed in scale. I think you might be agreeing with me but I'm not sure! Edited January 18, 2011 by Scratcher
Hughgos hobby bench Posted January 19, 2011 Posted January 19, 2011 Well done to you Sir..I will be watching with great interest. Hugh.
Scratcher Posted January 24, 2011 Author Posted January 24, 2011 (edited) http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/ac109/S...pg?t=1295828960 Well, I've started to fill in the bodywork, using car filler. It took me 6 hours to fill the nose section, after several layers and including sanding. I still have a little work to do yet - there are a few subtle contours between the windscreen and the nose cone I haven't tackled. I may have a slight exaggeration in the bottom end too - The vernier guage will sort it out. Some tips, hoping not to patronise the already converted - 1) Build the filler in several layers. it's so much easier to add filler than it is to remove it by sanding off the excess. 2) Be patient. Body filler sets withing 30 minutes. 3) having used the bulkhead/stringer method, filling between and slightly above - stop sanding when you see plastic showing (note the bulkeads I used in the canopy to guage the shape). Filler sands easier than plastic, so you'll end up with plastic high spots if you go beyond the point where you can just see the plastic. 4) Use a Vernier guage, or calipers, against your drawings. 5) Don't be worried about small holes and dents. DON'T sand down to remove them. Have a little patience, and fill them - knifing putty will fill the smaller holes. 6) Paint your work. - It will show up a multitude of sins. 7) Fill and sand again...., Anyway, back to the Bucc. Edited January 24, 2011 by Scratcher
Scratcher Posted January 26, 2011 Author Posted January 26, 2011 (edited) Pictures which work! I've filled and sanded the nose and part of the upper left fuselage now. On the right side I've added one layer of filler - a couple of my stringers are off centre but it makes no difference. I'll add a few more stringers underneath too. Once I've filled and sanded the rest of the blank I'll go over it with knifing putty and a few coats of high build primer. I used expanded polystyrene to fill in the bulk of the internal space. It reacts a little with the filler, but no matter. Oh, and I removed the spine bits from the bulkheads - they get in the way while sanding. I've still to extend the wing roots as far as the fold joints and add the spine. The nose, intakes and jet pipes will be separate components. I reckon around 50 hours so far... Edited January 26, 2011 by Scratcher 1
xffw45343tg Posted January 26, 2011 Posted January 26, 2011 That's looking fantastic. Watching with interest.
Sundown Posted January 26, 2011 Posted January 26, 2011 How cool is that?! Can't wait for the next update.
Royster Posted January 26, 2011 Posted January 26, 2011 That is seriously skilled work right there! Lovely stuff
crookedmouth Posted January 28, 2011 Posted January 28, 2011 Very clever - and it's already the right shade of pink. No need to paint!
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